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	<title>Best Gardening Guide &#187; soil</title>
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	<link>http://www.experimentalearth.com</link>
	<description></description>
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		<title>Right Plant Soil</title>
		<link>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/right-plant-soil.shtm</link>
		<comments>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/right-plant-soil.shtm#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:38:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>The Gardener</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nutrients]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[right plant soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[type of plants]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.experimentalearth.com/?p=174</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Choosing the right plant soil can make all the difference when it comes to creating a garden or lawn. The various soils will have a higher Ph level than others. In order to accommodate different type of plants the soil is either thinner or thicker. There are planting soils, top soils, and other soils that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Choosing the right plant soil can make all the difference when it comes to creating a garden or lawn. The various soils will have a higher Ph level than others. In order to accommodate different type of plants the soil is either thinner or thicker. There are planting soils, top soils, and other soils that are intended for different environments. To establish the right soil it will be necessary to research the type of soil that is currently in use, and investigate to see which type of plants will survive in that soil.</p>
<p>Many of the plants available will be able to survive better depending on the weather conditions. The soil that the plant is in cannot help these plants when they start to die. Knowing the kinds of plants that will remain healthy in your climate will help to save time and energy during the gardening process. The soil needs to full of nutrients that most plants require to survive. In most garden nurseries there is soil that will be specific for any particular type of plant life.</p>
<p>By provided the <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/soil-testing-kit-benefits.shtm" >right type of soil</a> will give the plants a much better change of survival. If any plants that have been placed in the recommended soil are not doing well, then there may be other problems relating to this, such as moisture levels, Ph levels, or other nearby plants. Some plants that grow thick roots are able to compete for all the nutrients in a local area, which will most likely suffocate the smaller plants. Doing some simply research on which plants can be planted next to each other will quickly help to solve this type of problem.</p>
<p>The nutrients in any given soil is likely to fade over time, so make a schedule to regularly change the soil may help with keeping the nutrients flowing. Most care will need to be given to those plants that are newly planted in the soil. It will be important to monitor these to ensure that they are not being attacked by insects, have sufficient water, and are receiving the nutrients from the soil that is necessary to grow. In order to maintain healthy and vibrant plant life, always make sure to use the right plant soil.</p>
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		<title>Advantages Of Soil Test Kits</title>
		<link>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/advantages-of-soil-test-kits.shtm</link>
		<comments>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/advantages-of-soil-test-kits.shtm#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Jul 2010 21:04:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>The Gardener</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil testing kit]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.experimentalearth.com/?p=166</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The best lawns and gardens tend to have one thing in common – great soil. Testing the soil in your garden is an easy and relatively inexpensive task, and will allow you to select the right plants for your garden.
The ideal time to perform a soil test is typically prior to any major new planting, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The best lawns and gardens tend to have one thing in common – great soil. Testing the soil in your garden is an easy and relatively inexpensive task, and will allow you to select the right plants for your garden.</p>
<p>The ideal time to perform a soil test is typically prior to any major new planting, such as landscaping, planting grass seeds, or a vegetable patch. These test kits are easy to use and available in your <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/planting-shrubs-for-your-landscape.shtm" >local garden nurseries</a>.</p>
<p>The soil testing kit is able to analyse the soil in order to diagnose the pH level, soil type, amount of organic material present, how much salt is in the soil, and any deficiencies in the nutrient levels that may exist. This will assist you in making the correct decisions regarding the addition of any <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/additives-for-soil.shtm" >supplemental fertilization</a>.</p>
<p>You can pick up a simple do-it-yourself soil testing kit from your local garden nursery, in order to establish the soil pH, and also gain a rough idea to the nutrient levels. Having one of these kits in your garden shed can be a very useful cost saving tool to have.</p>
<p>If you in the need for more accurate data, than it would be wise to send off a soil sample to commercial agency or a university testing laboratory for a complete analysis.</p>
<p>All this involves is simply digging up a soil sample from each area to be tested, seal it in a bag and ship it to the lab. After a short wait, you will receive easy to understand test results, along with guidelines for any needed soil improvements.</p>
<p>The only way to be certain which nutrients are lacking in your garden is to carry out a soil test. Without the benefits that you would be gaining from using soil test kits, you could be applying too much, too little, or the wron<a>g nutrients.</a></p>
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		<title>Weed Trimmer</title>
		<link>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/weed-trimmer.shtm</link>
		<comments>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/weed-trimmer.shtm#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jul 2010 13:45:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>The Gardener</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Weeds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weed trimmer]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.experimentalearth.com/?p=164</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Weeds are persistent pesky plants. Battling their growth requires the same level of persistence, least we lose out and allow these weeds to take over our gardens.
Weeds are undesirable plants for a variety of reasons. They rob &#8211; literally speaking &#8211; our plants of the required nutrients for their healthy and optimal growth. Weeds can [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Weeds are persistent pesky plants. Battling their growth requires the same level of persistence, least we lose out and allow these weeds to take over <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/water-garden.shtm" >our gardens</a>.</p>
<p>Weeds are undesirable plants for a variety of reasons. They rob &#8211; literally speaking &#8211; our plants of the required nutrients for their healthy and optimal growth. Weeds can also provide a breeding ground for unwanted pests that can ruin the beauty of our gardens. Weeds also compete with the moisture in the soil, moisture that some of our plants will not be able to live without.</p>
<p>Truly, controlling the growth of weeds is of paramount concern for gardeners all around the world.</p>
<p>For a lot of gardeners, purchasing a weed trimmer is the best way to get rid of these <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/nuisance-of-grass-weeds.shtm" >undesirable weeds</a>. But here&#8217;s a revelation: a weed trimmer is not the total weed control solution you may have been expecting? Why?</p>
<p>Even if weeds are trimmed, their roots and seeds will remain. A weed trimmer will only get rid of the topmost parts of weeds. This may beautify the garden instantly, but such is only a temporary effect. Beneath the surface, the weeds will continue to grow, and come the next cycle, they&#8217;ll be back in full force to plague our gardens.</p>
<p>What should be done?</p>
<p>For starters, the idea of relying solely on a weed trimmer should be dispensed with. More manual work is needed, unfortunately, and such work should be done.</p>
<p>One the topmost parts of the weeds are trimmed, cultivate the soil. Dig a foot of ground for the area concerned, and turn over the soil. This will bring the buried seeds and seedlings to the top.</p>
<p>Wait for one to three weeks, until the new weeds sprout. Trim them again, and repeat the process.</p>
<p>In the meantime, you can apply some herbicide that is safe for your growing crops to minimize the growth of the weeds.</p>
<p>You have to do this over and over again until the weeds are completely wiped out.</p>
<p>Indeed, the process does sound physically taxing, but again, it is something that must be done. Other weed control solutions will be temporary. The best way to deal with matters is to go straight to the root of things, figuratively and literally speaking. This way, you&#8217;ll be able to ensure that your garden will be weed-free once the process is completed. You won&#8217;t have to worry about those pesky nutrient-robbers anymore.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Additives for Soil</title>
		<link>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/additives-for-soil.shtm</link>
		<comments>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/additives-for-soil.shtm#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jul 2010 11:13:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>The Gardener</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Additives]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[activators]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fertilizers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil conditioners]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wetting agents]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.experimentalearth.com/?p=156</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Soil and additives can be broken down into a variety of categories. Some of them are enhancers, soil conditioners, soil stimulators, and wetting agents. There have, surprisingly, been known going back to the 1800&#8217;s. However, many gardeners feel that, apart from fertilizers, when you consider additives you shouldn&#8217;t even bother. They believe that there is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Soil and additives can be broken down into a variety of categories. Some of them are enhancers, soil conditioners, soil stimulators, and wetting agents. There have, surprisingly, been known going back to the 1800&#8217;s. However, many gardeners feel that, apart from fertilizers, when you consider additives you shouldn&#8217;t even bother. They believe that there is no actual proof that these things will assist the <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/" >gardens growth</a>.</p>
<p>On the other hand, there are many who do strongly believe that additives included in the soil will improve the garden, and need to be considered before the actual planting begins. Many of the companies that market the additives aim to promote better soil composition, better growth, and a lower requirement for fertilizer.</p>
<p>The choices that you have with additives for soil are many. If it&#8217;s a soil conditioner that you are thinking of, then using what your have been allowing to build up in your compost will make an excellent alternative. This will offer an improvement in the water retention together with an overall enhancement to the soil as well. Natural organic additives will always be considered as the best option to use. Sand is an additional natural additive that can assist the soil.</p>
<p>It will improve the soil in its ability to feed the roots along with the consistency of the soil by making the earth looser. From studies that have been carried out on soil, it has clearly shown that these do help the earth to make for <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/rose-planting-is-an-art-but-you-want-to-make-sure-that-when-you-plant-them.shtm" >optimum plant growth</a>. If the farmer&#8217;s crop can be greatly improved, then they most certainly can be improving you vegetable patch.</p>
<p>Activators for the soil are not that dissimilar, although that have tended to fare worse in studies. These have unfortunately shown no particular benefits to being used yet, they are meant to have similar properties and accomplish to same sort of tasks. Ideally the soil should have the <a href="http://www.experimentalearth.com/2010/problem-of-lake-weeds.shtm" >intake of nutrients</a> increased, and reduce the tightness amongst the soil. If the soil is too compacted, it has the potential to prevent the roots from traveling through it, which will result in the growth of the plant being stifled.</p>
<p>In comparison wetting agents have proved to be useful to the soil and additives that are able to assist with this function and making some great steps forward.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Soils and Conditions of the Site</title>
		<link>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2009/soils-and-conditions-of-the-site.shtm</link>
		<comments>http://www.experimentalearth.com/2009/soils-and-conditions-of-the-site.shtm#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:33:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>The Gardener</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[General Principles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[apples]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[conditions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drainage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dung]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruit-grower]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardener]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kinds of fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[manures]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pears]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plan garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[range of soils]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[site]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[subsoil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[types of soil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.experimentalearth.com/?p=8</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As a rule, the amateur fruit-grower has little choice of soil or even site. He has to accept the soil and site on which his house is built. If, however, he wishes to plan his garden to the best advantage, he must know the conditions that suit the different kinds of fruit. The conditions most [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As a rule, the amateur fruit-grower has little choice of soil or even site. He has to accept the soil and site on which his house is built. If, however, he wishes to plan his garden to the best advantage, he must know the conditions that suit the different kinds of fruit. The conditions most favorable for soft fruit are described under each fruit.</p>
<p>Apples, pears, plums and other top fruits can all be grown successfully on many different types of soil, but the ideal one is probably a slightly acid, fairly deep, well-drained, medium loam. Dessert apples, especially &#8216;Cox&#8217;s Orange Pippin&#8217;, require the best positions, soils and drainage. Pears are rather less tolerant of very dry conditions than are apples. Plums and cooking apples can be grown satisfactorily in a wider range of soils and conditions. Heavy soils will give good results, provided drainage is good and the ground is well prepared with the subsoil thoroughly broken up. Gravel and chalk soils are not good, but if they are well trenched and plenty of dung or composted material is incorporated with the subsoil, results may be reasonable. Light, dry soils present a problem, but here again generous applications of organic manures or compost before planting will help considerably.</p>
<p>Frost can have a serious effect on fruit. Cold air, being heavier than warmer air, tends to collect in pockets in low-lying ground, particularly in valleys where there is no outlet for it. Such frost pockets should be avoided if possible. It is very difficult to obtain regular crops in such situations without elaborate precautions. Some cultivars of fruits are less prone to frost damage and these are indicated in the lists of recommended cultivars. In the case of cordons and small trees some protection against late spring frosts can be given with sacking, frost proof mats or hessian supported on a framework, but this must be made very secure so that the blossoms or young fruitlets are not damaged.</p>
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